Yanmar 2QM20 Diesel Maintenance

by PyratCapn on September 11, 2008

We aquired our 1980 Morgan 323 Mariola (then El Caribe) in June of this year. Among some of the many discoveries during the last few months, one was that our salt water cooled Yanmar 2QM20 diesel engine had anti-corrosion zincs that require replacing. When we purchased the boat it was in decent shape but you could tell it was on the downhill slide in regards to maintenance. It was at the point where a decent amount of $$ and elbow grease was needed, probably the reason it was put up for sale. I guessed since the outside of the boat and engine needed cosmetic work, so did the inside. So the other day Cannonball and I put on our greasy clothes and went to work.

Let me just say a few things about my mechanical ability, because there’s really only a few things I’m good at. Taking things apart and leaving them that way. For some reason the deconstruction part is much easier than getting it back together without left over pieces. I mean, I know righty tighty – lefty lucy, there’s no such thing as a metric crescent wrench, WD-40 is magical, you know - the basics. At least diesels seem to be pretty simple, no distributor or electronic ignition wires protruding everywhere.

Before Pic - Being Dismantled



We now return to taking stuff apart, already in progress.
There are 3 zincs in the motor, two in the front, one in the back. They came out quite easily and were, I think, just ready to be changed. As I peered up into the head, I couldn’t see any salt buildup or corrosion. The only mess was right around the zinc and it scraped out with a little effort. They really seem to do their job. The previous owner had left a bucket load of new spare parts on board and there were 3 new replacement zincs in the inventory. Just to be safe I had picked up two replacement gaskets for the engine plates at Mastry Engine so we had everything we needed. We didn’t however, get the zincs back in that day. As long as the engine was exposed and apart, we decided to embark on a starter problem. See, things tend to stay apart.

Low Conductivity
Since the day we bought the boat it has had this interesting starting quirk – you push the start button and nothing happens, sometimes a faint “click” and sometimes nothing at all. You get nervous, look around for an oil tanker bearing down on you (this is when it happens), push it about 5 times and then the engine turns over. This drives me nuts. I either want something to be busted, or work 100% of the time. I hate not knowing if the engine is going to start. Let’s face it, when you need the engine, it’s usually because there is manuvering to be done. Back to making me nuts – while I was at Mastry picking up my gaskets, I explained the delayed starting problem to the parts guy and asked if it was the solenoid or “magnetic switch” on top of the starter. He said they either work, or they don’t.  Plus they cost almost $200 so killed my idea of just replacing parts until it worked – dammit. He then told me since the boat is 30 years old, it’s a probably conductivity issue. WTF? Old wires don’t carry as much juice. He said that I could purchase a “booster kit” for $110. I think I will just run new wires if need be. Sounds fishy to me – maybe he’s trying to win the company pool for “dumbest customer”, I showed him.

Still not completely believeing that wire loses it’s ability to carry current over age (I mean, come on! it just sits there!) CannonBall and I worked, checking all the connections, volts coming through, etc. Everything worked perfect, volts were 13.5 - the push starter switch, fuses, grounds, battery connections, etc. were good and making connections. What we couldn’t measure was the load being pulled when we tried to start the motor. Finally we just ran a new wire right to the starter and it turned over every, single, feaking time. Had the fellow at Mastry not told me about conductivity and old wires, I doubt we ever would have figured it out. He wins and I owe him some beer. Now, I guess this means I will be doing a lot of rewiring on the boat as well.

Humpty Is Back
Finally the other day I found some time and put the plates that hold the zincs back on. When I started her up (yes, first button push) she ran so cool I could put hand anywhere on the motor. A few days later I degreased and wire brushed the engine, primed and spray painted the rusty spots – now it looks dang good. I bought some type of fancy spray lube that I’m going to hose her down with and hopefully that will keep the exterior rust at bay. I plan on changing the oil – just as soon as I figure out the best way to avoid an environmental disaster.
 The After Pic - Paint Works Wonders

{ 22 comments… read them below or add one }

SCOTT BRICHAN October 3, 2008 at 7:26 pm

hey man
greetings from santa barbara, just came across your site while looking for info on my engine, also 2qm20, your story sounds so similar to mine on fixing up my boat, 1978 oday 32′… and your mechanical abilities i am certified in wd-40 but thats about it, Did the stove, head and now engine, i would love to get those moldy cushions done but engine’s gotta come first, anyway, my engine hasnt been run for 10 years, i replaced starter and alternator but i dont see a starter push button, do you have one on the panel or where is yours? im heading down there this weekend to keep on cleaning let me know what other engines fixes you do ok?
scott

Reply

RumHead October 4, 2008 at 11:25 am

Hi Scott,
Bizarre coincidence! I just returned from a two week trip to CA and was in Santa Barbara. Great area. I started a topic in the forums on the 2QM20 so if we have more conversations about this motor others may have imput or learn from them.

Reply

mrG November 1, 2010 at 3:45 am

Hi, I've recently acquired a 38 foot ketch with a 2qm20 – the clutches were worn out and ive replaced them – not a job for the inexperienced – but – one of the reasons they were worn was the previous owner had filled the gbox with trans fluid! It took me a while to find someone who knew what they were talking about and this post is to adamantly warn anyone against making that mistake. BOTH the engine and gearbox run on monograde 30 oil. If you're not sure – there are a couple of different gboxes that got bolted to this eng., find out for sure before you tip anything in the gbox!! Believe me, its easier to change the oil than the clutches.

Reply

SCOTT BRICHAN October 15, 2008 at 11:18 am

Hi Rich,
thats great you were in sb, hope you made it to the harbor. did you ever figure out how your push pull stop lever works?

scott
santa barbara

Reply

BC January 5, 2009 at 3:36 pm

Rumhead,

I’ve read your posting about your Morgan with great interest – having just taken delivery of a 1981 sistership. I believe you have the model number wrong, however. M32′s of our vintage are, I believe, 321′s. As far as I can tell, the 323 was designated in 1983. If you go to the Yahoo “morgagowners” group, you’ll find a brochure in the files section of the 323 – you’ll see the few minor differences. I’m not quite sure where I got the years – probably read that somewhere along the way. BTW, I keep my M32 – “en guard” – at Blind Pass, so I’ll likely see you out there one day soon.

Happy Sailing….BC

Reply

RumHead January 5, 2009 at 3:53 pm

Hey BC,
You are correct. I just dug out the owners manual with original blueprint and it says 321. I’m quite sure I got the 323 from the broker’s info sheet. That explains why some searches I did seemed to always come up a bit off. Can’t wait to see you out there. Keep an “aye” out for the PyratSail flag.
RumHead

Reply

dave January 27, 2009 at 4:55 pm

About starting and wires- mine does exactly the same thing, almost every time. Here’s why, even though you have good voltage, corrosion causes resistance which will reduce the amps going to the starter. When you crank it and nothing happens all those amps create heat wich lowers the resistance in the wires and allows it to work the second time. But you’ll be a lot happier with new wires.

I have the same engine in my 1976 Nicholson 31.

I started it the other day in 18 deg F by separating the linkage on the compression lever and starting one cylinder at a time.

I’ll be very interested in updates on your progress with this engine as I am pulling mine soon to work on the trans.

thanks

Reply

mrG November 1, 2010 at 3:51 am

I also had this starting problem but in my case the cause was simple – a loose connection on the solenoid. But because it had been like that for some time the wire had sort of fused in place so it didnt feel loose. I recommend undoing the solenoid conns and checking them – i only found out because after pulling the engine to replace the clutches and refitting it the engine wouldnt turn over at all so i disconnected the solenoid to check the wiring whereupon i discovered the lousy connection. a couple spring washers and she fired up with the starter whizzing faster than id ever heard.

Reply

Karl February 6, 2009 at 10:20 pm

I have an 76E32 with an original 2QM20. I do my own work and, she still runs great.
After 10yrs, here are my recommendations for this engine.

1. Here in Miami, I pulled the thermostat.

2. I only use auto diesel(green hose), and add a 5gal can, every other month. It’s cleaner auto fuel. Red hose is high phosphorus, and smokey.

3. Every time I add fuel, I use 1oz of PRI-D. This is a great additive that cleans injectors and stabilizes the fuel. I have no smoke at all, even at start-up.

4. I removed the foam air filter.

5. I use Mobil 1 oil. I could really tell the difference in rpm and engine noise.

6. Use only Globe (blue) run dry impellers.

7. Install a small Racor water separating fuel filter.

Failures:
Small steel recirc line rusted through, and had a pin hole oil leak.

Alternator the first week I owned it.

That’s it in 10yrs.

Good luck!!!

Reply

RumHead February 6, 2009 at 10:53 pm

Thanks for the tips Karl! I haven’t heard of the run dry impellers.

Reply

Muhammad Zahir June 5, 2010 at 2:39 am

This engine ia available now to buy? if its let me know price.

Reply

Craig Friel October 26, 2010 at 7:14 pm

my 2qm20 engine has been very reliable in the 12 years Ive had it. the only trouble I had was the exhaust elbow that attaches to the heat exchanger which rusted out. I just went through my second one this week. The boat stays in salt water near Tampa Fl and seems to rust out every 6 or 7 years.Flushing with fresh water after a trip I hope will help.

Reply

Tom May 9, 2011 at 11:21 am

Craig,
when you replaced the elbow where were you able to find the replacement?

Reply

MAC January 10, 2011 at 12:07 pm

have e32 with 2qm20….would like to add a 3 blade prop….
any ideas , pitch etc…..

Reply

MAC January 10, 2011 at 12:08 pm

have e32 with 2qm20, what 3 blade prop would work pitch etc….

Reply

Rich January 10, 2011 at 12:13 pm

MAC try these guys: Mastry Engine 727-522-9471, they know almost everything there is to know.

Reply

khan January 23, 2011 at 3:26 am

Please can you supply me the used yanmar 2qm20 marine engine or used parts such as startermotor,impellar,cylinder head ,crankshaft and water pump.

Reply

bill May 21, 2011 at 10:02 pm

looking to buy a starter for a 20 hp yanmar,2qm20y,
tks bill

Reply

PyratCapn May 22, 2011 at 10:12 am

Try Wills Starter in St. Petersburg, FL.
4695 49th St N
Saint Petersburg, FL 33709
(727) 522-7420
They had a good replacement that was around$200 compared to $800 for one from Yanmar.

Reply

jeanfrancois Ramousse June 8, 2011 at 10:22 am

Hi Everyone…I am a newbie to this thread…and to Yanmar diesels.
My 2QM20 having a leaky waterpump , I decided to upgrade to the SPEEDSEAL impeller cover and ordered one .Although I stated the exact type of engine , they sent me a cover that wouldn’t fit and that I had to send back (to England).
Now I am about to reinstall the original cover and would like to know where to get the gaskets.
Although , are the 2 gaskets , on each side of the SS plate identical ?
…and does anyone has any experience replacing successfully the paper gasket with…..something from a tube ??
Thanks in advance ,

Reply

PyratCapn June 10, 2011 at 7:24 am

Don’t use anything from a tube for a gasket. It could get inside the pump and that would plug up your system, tear up your pump, etc. Any Yanmar dealer should be able to order the gaskets you need. There is a major dealer here in Florida:
Mastry Engine, Phone: (727) 522-9471
Not sure about the gasket question. I believe I only had one between the plate and the housing.

Reply

Kevin November 29, 2011 at 11:08 pm

2qm20 fans – the key to success is maintenance. I’ve made several key mistakes by trying to spend the least amount of money. My mixing elbow started to leak but the drip was in the engine area and the excess would just run into the bilge, so I thought no big deal. Bad idea. I day/night sail a couple of times a week and only run the motor about 10 minutes to get out of the harbor and about 10 minutes to get back so not a lot of water kicking out of the mixing elbow. What I didn’t think about was all that excess salt moisture in the engine room. After several months having all that moist salty air in my engine room started to take its toll on the engine room. I finally patched (yes patched) the leak by getting a radiator hose that would fit over mixing elbow and a couple of clamps later – no leak. I went along like that for the next couple of years until the area around the clamp started getting soft and chunks of metal started falling off. I wish I could post pictures on this site because the deterioration was amazing. The expansion of the metal and the gas/water separator was almost gone, plus the expansion made the passageway extremely small. After replacing the elbow, water flow out the back like never before.

Come to find out, I was very lucky. If the elbow doesn’t expel the water correctly, there is a good chance it may create a water back up to the cylinders. Morale of the story – the mixing elbow (although expensive) is considered an expendable part.

I’ve grown up in my pursuit of getting the engine back to new. I had an engine failure when I was out sailing in a storm. After the 30K winds and rain stopped, there was a dead calm. We were crossing the San Pedro channel to get to Catalina, so we wanted to get moving. I fired up the motor and it started just fine. After about 30 minutes of running through the rough water it slowed down and then stopped. – The reason . . . . a dirty fuel tank. Most of the bad stuff in diesel fuel like water and algae seem to sink to the bottom. When stirred this stuff will quickly plug your filters. Just a bad set of circumstances to have engine failure when you need them . . . . keep your fuel clean. It’s not a bad idea to annually pump out a gallon from the bottom and see what it looks like.

Reply

Leave a Comment

Previous post:

Next post: