We aquired our 1980 Morgan 323 Mariola (then El Caribe) in June of this year. Among some of the many discoveries during the last few months, one was that our salt water cooled Yanmar 2QM20 diesel engine had anti-corrosion zincs that require replacing. When we purchased the boat it was in decent shape but you could tell it was on the downhill slide in regards to maintenance. It was at the point where a decent amount of $$ and elbow grease was needed, probably the reason it was put up for sale. I guessed since the outside of the boat and engine needed cosmetic work, so did the inside. So the other day Cannonball and I put on our greasy clothes and went to work.
Let me just say a few things about my mechanical ability, because there’s really only a few things I’m good at. Taking things apart and leaving them that way. For some reason the deconstruction part is much easier than getting it back together without left over pieces. I mean, I know righty tighty – lefty lucy, there’s no such thing as a metric crescent wrench, WD-40 is magical, you know - the basics. At least diesels seem to be pretty simple, no distributor or electronic ignition wires protruding everywhere.

We now return to taking stuff apart, already in progress.
There are 3 zincs in the motor, two in the front, one in the back. They came out quite easily and were, I think, just ready to be changed. As I peered up into the head, I couldn’t see any salt buildup or corrosion. The only mess was right around the zinc and it scraped out with a little effort. They really seem to do their job. The previous owner had left a bucket load of new spare parts on board and there were 3 new replacement zincs in the inventory. Just to be safe I had picked up two replacement gaskets for the engine plates at Mastry Engine so we had everything we needed. We didn’t however, get the zincs back in that day. As long as the engine was exposed and apart, we decided to embark on a starter problem. See, things tend to stay apart.
Low Conductivity
Since the day we bought the boat it has had this interesting starting quirk – you push the start button and nothing happens, sometimes a faint “click” and sometimes nothing at all. You get nervous, look around for an oil tanker bearing down on you (this is when it happens), push it about 5 times and then the engine turns over. This drives me nuts. I either want something to be busted, or work 100% of the time. I hate not knowing if the engine is going to start. Let’s face it, when you need the engine, it’s usually because there is manuvering to be done. Back to making me nuts – while I was at Mastry picking up my gaskets, I explained the delayed starting problem to the parts guy and asked if it was the solenoid or “magnetic switch” on top of the starter. He said they either work, or they don’t. Plus they cost almost $200 so killed my idea of just replacing parts until it worked – dammit. He then told me since the boat is 30 years old, it’s a probably conductivity issue. WTF? Old wires don’t carry as much juice. He said that I could purchase a “booster kit” for $110. I think I will just run new wires if need be. Sounds fishy to me – maybe he’s trying to win the company pool for “dumbest customer”, I showed him.
Still not completely believeing that wire loses it’s ability to carry current over age (I mean, come on! it just sits there!) CannonBall and I worked, checking all the connections, volts coming through, etc. Everything worked perfect, volts were 13.5 - the push starter switch, fuses, grounds, battery connections, etc. were good and making connections. What we couldn’t measure was the load being pulled when we tried to start the motor. Finally we just ran a new wire right to the starter and it turned over every, single, feaking time. Had the fellow at Mastry not told me about conductivity and old wires, I doubt we ever would have figured it out. He wins and I owe him some beer. Now, I guess this means I will be doing a lot of rewiring on the boat as well.
Humpty Is Back
Finally the other day I found some time and put the plates that hold the zincs back on. When I started her up (yes, first button push) she ran so cool I could put hand anywhere on the motor. A few days later I degreased and wire brushed the engine, primed and spray painted the rusty spots – now it looks dang good. I bought some type of fancy spray lube that I’m going to hose her down with and hopefully that will keep the exterior rust at bay. I plan on changing the oil – just as soon as I figure out the best way to avoid an environmental disaster.



{ 8 comments… read them below or add one }
hey man
greetings from santa barbara, just came across your site while looking for info on my engine, also 2qm20, your story sounds so similar to mine on fixing up my boat, 1978 oday 32′… and your mechanical abilities i am certified in wd-40 but thats about it, Did the stove, head and now engine, i would love to get those moldy cushions done but engine’s gotta come first, anyway, my engine hasnt been run for 10 years, i replaced starter and alternator but i dont see a starter push button, do you have one on the panel or where is yours? im heading down there this weekend to keep on cleaning let me know what other engines fixes you do ok?
scott
Hi Scott,
Bizarre coincidence! I just returned from a two week trip to CA and was in Santa Barbara. Great area. I started a topic in the forums on the 2QM20 so if we have more conversations about this motor others may have imput or learn from them.
Hi Rich,
thats great you were in sb, hope you made it to the harbor. did you ever figure out how your push pull stop lever works?
scott
santa barbara
Rumhead,
I’ve read your posting about your Morgan with great interest – having just taken delivery of a 1981 sistership. I believe you have the model number wrong, however. M32’s of our vintage are, I believe, 321’s. As far as I can tell, the 323 was designated in 1983. If you go to the Yahoo “morgagowners” group, you’ll find a brochure in the files section of the 323 – you’ll see the few minor differences. I’m not quite sure where I got the years – probably read that somewhere along the way. BTW, I keep my M32 – “en guard” – at Blind Pass, so I’ll likely see you out there one day soon.
Happy Sailing….BC
Hey BC,
You are correct. I just dug out the owners manual with original blueprint and it says 321. I’m quite sure I got the 323 from the broker’s info sheet. That explains why some searches I did seemed to always come up a bit off. Can’t wait to see you out there. Keep an “aye” out for the PyratSail flag.
RumHead
About starting and wires- mine does exactly the same thing, almost every time. Here’s why, even though you have good voltage, corrosion causes resistance which will reduce the amps going to the starter. When you crank it and nothing happens all those amps create heat wich lowers the resistance in the wires and allows it to work the second time. But you’ll be a lot happier with new wires.
I have the same engine in my 1976 Nicholson 31.
I started it the other day in 18 deg F by separating the linkage on the compression lever and starting one cylinder at a time.
I’ll be very interested in updates on your progress with this engine as I am pulling mine soon to work on the trans.
thanks
I have an 76E32 with an original 2QM20. I do my own work and, she still runs great.
After 10yrs, here are my recommendations for this engine.
1. Here in Miami, I pulled the thermostat.
2. I only use auto diesel(green hose), and add a 5gal can, every other month. It’s cleaner auto fuel. Red hose is high phosphorus, and smokey.
3. Every time I add fuel, I use 1oz of PRI-D. This is a great additive that cleans injectors and stabilizes the fuel. I have no smoke at all, even at start-up.
4. I removed the foam air filter.
5. I use Mobil 1 oil. I could really tell the difference in rpm and engine noise.
6. Use only Globe (blue) run dry impellers.
7. Install a small Racor water separating fuel filter.
Failures:
Small steel recirc line rusted through, and had a pin hole oil leak.
Alternator the first week I owned it.
That’s it in 10yrs.
Good luck!!!
Thanks for the tips Karl! I haven’t heard of the run dry impellers.